Колбаса

   Поскольку самой «колбасной» нацией в мире по праву считается немецкая, то многие думают, что немцами она и была изобретена. Но, как доказал американский историк Чарльз Панейти, колбасу придумали не древние германцы, а вавилоняне примерно 3500 лет назад. Они набивали кишки животных мясом, приправленным специями.

  

   А первое упоминание о колбасе в литературе встречается у Гомера в «Одиссее»: Как на огне, разгоревшемся ярко, Ворочают полный Жиром и кровью желудок туда И сюда, чтоб отовсюду Мог быть он сочно и вкусно обжарен, Огнем не прижженный, Так на постели ворочался он... Эти слова позволяют предположить, что древнегреческая колбаса, скорее всего, была кровяной.

  

   Если же говорить о появлении колбасы в России (а произошло это в конце девятнадцатого века), то стоит отметить, что поначалу особой популярностью она не пользовалась и даже какое-то время считалась «богомерзким немецким продуктом».

  

   В конце девятнадцатого века лишь в одном месте в России — поволжском городке Угличе производили колбасу. Причем качество ее, мягко говоря, оставляло желать лучшего. Вот как описывает производство угличской колбасы в 1895 году автор, пожелавший остаться неизвестным, опасаясь мести разоблачаемых им колбасных дельцов:

  

   «Угличская колбаса приготавливается из мяса старых быков и коров, которые вообще не годятся для потребления в пищу. Такое мясо оставляется в подвале на несколько недель, пока кости не станут легко от него отделяться. К полуразложившемуся мясу примешивается измельченное свиное сало. Затем колбасная масса солится, вполне плотно набивается в толстые кишки и коптится. Эта копченая колбаса вывозится в значительном количестве в Москву и даже в Петербург, не производящие копченых колбас, а также в другие города. А из Москвы со скотобоен привозят в Углич различный сбой, т. е. мясные отбросы для производства колбасной массы».

  

   Но вернемся в наши дни. Наверное, чуть ли не каждому человеку, проживающему в нашей стране, приходилось возмущаться, смотря на нарезанную только что купленную белесую колбасу: «Сплошной крахмал. Мясом и не пахнет».

  

   Но так уж ли это плохо? Парадоксально, но производители подобных колбасных изделий, сами того не подозревая, заботятся о здоровье покупателей. Ведь увеличение содержания «красного» мяса в диете в 3—4 раза вело к такому же увеличению нитрозосоединений в кишечнике человека, что в свою очередь сказалось бы на росте количества заболеваний раком кишечника. А вот добавление крахмала в колбасу оказывается полезным, так как он является исходным сырьем, из которого в кишечнике образуется бутират, производное масляной кислоты, обладающей антиканцерогенными свойствами. Так что, наверное, нет смысла сильно обижаться на производителей за то, что в колбасе мало мяса и много крахмала.

  

   Еще один миф возник в годы колбасного дефицита и до сих пор смущает многих наших соотечественников — слухи о том, что в вареную колбасу добавляют всякие вредные добавки, типа туалетной бумаги, коровьих рогов и копыт и т. п. На самом же деле подобные жуткие вещи не делали ни тогда, ни сейчас (если, конечно, колбаса производится на солидном предприятии, а не на домашнем подпольном колбасном заводике). Что добавляют в колбасу, так это различные пищевые добавки (натуральные или синтетические). Среди них есть и яды, например эритрозин и нитрит натрия. Но бояться отравления не стоит. Чтобы это случилось, нужно съесть в один присест пятьдесят батонов импортной колбасы. Отечественной колбасы для этой цели понадобится гораздо больше — двести батонов. Отказаться же от нитрита натрия в производстве колбасы пока еще невозможно. Он необходим для предохранения колбасы от бактерий, выделяющих токсин ботулизма.

  

   Известный юморист Константин Мелихан объяснял название колбасы «докторская» тем, что после употребления ее в пишу надо было срочно вызывать врача. На самом же деле ее так назвали потому, что она специально изготовлена для людей с проблемами пищеварения: в ней очень мало раздражающих кишечник пряностей.

  

   Импортная колбаса обычно смотрится лучше нашей отечественной. Но это как раз тот случай, когда «не все то золото, что блестит». Лучший внешний вид зарубежной колбасы объясняется применением мошной «косметики» — кармина и эритрозина. А вот нашу колбаску обычно подкрашивают витамином С, который дает ей здоровый розовый цвет. Из-за наличия множества консервантов импортная колбаса может долго храниться. В нашей же колбасе химических добавок меньше, а потому и хранить ее долго не рекомендуется.

  

  

  

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