Кулинарные книги и Гаролд Макги

   В кулинарных книгах часто рекомендуют чистить грибы перед готовкой, но не мыть, потому что они размокают. В этом усомнился американский кулинар Гаролд Макги. Он взвесил грибы, а затем положил их в воду. Через пять минут каждый гриб впитал в себя всего лишь по 1 /16 чайной ложки воды. Так что мойте грибы на здоровье.

  

   Тот же Гаролд Макги с недоверием воспринял и другую рекомендацию — салат следует рвать только руками, так как ножом можно повредить или обесцветить листья. Макги часть салата покрошил ножом, а часть — руками, после чего положил салат в холодильник на несколько дней, а затем сравнил. И в том, и в другом случае салат выглядел одинаково.

  

   Под сомнение поставил Макги и всем известный рецепт майонеза, согласно которому на один яичный желток приходится чашка растительного масла. Любознательный повар выяснил, что если добавить достаточное количество воды, то с одним желтком можно смешивать до ста чашек масла!

  

   Недоверчивый кулинар провел еще множество экспериментов, доказавших, что кулинарные книги содержат много неточностей и нельзя все принимать на веру без проверки.

  

   Надо сказать, что Гаролд Макги далеко не одинок в своем скептическом отношении к кулинарным книгам. Знаменитый кулинар-практик Вильям Похлебкин считает, что рецепты, приводимые в таких книгах, далеко не главное в кулинарии. Гораздо важнее знать и владеть общими принципами кулинарной технологии. Эти знания, опыт, навык и умение позволят осознать, что любой новый прием, относящийся к какому-либо продукту, носит дополнительный, а не основной характер. По мнению Вильяма Похлебкина, это важнейшее обстоятельство совершенно не учитывается многочисленными составителями кулинарных книг, которые в большей части являются «переписчиками» уже известных рецептов.

  

   Вильям Похлебкин пишет: «Именно отсюда идет появление кулинарных книг типа «Блюда из мяса», «Блюда из овощей», «Блюда из грибов» и даже «Блюда из картофеля», которые в практическом смысле просто никчемны, а в научно-кулинарном отношении попросту вредны, ибо они запутывают читателя, создают у него, вместо цельной и ясной, пеструю и туманную картину кулинарных процессов, заставляя думать, что мелкая деталь, частный прием — важнее главного, скрывая от него существо и приучая быть рабом рецепта, а не свободным творцом у плиты.

  

   Единственная цель таких книг — увеличить объем кулинарной литературы, заставить читателя покупать десяток практически ненужных книг, вместо одной дельной. При этом весьма характерно, что в таких книжках основное место занимают красочные, броские иллюстрации, в них минимум текста, ибо тем, кто их составляет, нечего сказать по существу. Так как объяснение частностей, специфических для какого-либо определенного продукта, например мяса или грибов, занимает гораздо меньше места, чем объяснение основных процессов, относящихся ко всем продуктам вообще».

  

  

  

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